Day Eight: Day in Marrakesh [June 2nd 2013, Sunday]

Worcester State University Faculty Led Morocco Program – 2013 (Day 8)

It is Sunday, Day 8 of our travels. I am starting to get a little sad knowing that our trip is almost over and that we will be boarding a plane home soon. We are going to make the most of our last few days in Morocco!

—- *Blog Photographs are Courtesy of Christopher Lippmann, one of thirteen WSU Morocco 2013 Travelers | **Video Links are short ‘clips’ uploaded from the entire WSU Group to our WSU Flickr Account to enhance the blog experience. —-

Today we left our Ryad Mogador Hotel and we had a guide to take us around the city to teach us about Marrakesh and its history. Marrakesh is called “The Red City” because of the ochre color of the buildings. We learned that Marrakesh is the Capital of Berbers and the first inhabitants of Morocco lived here. This city is one of Four imperial cities: Rabat, Fes, Meknes, and Marrakesh. I find that it is amazing that we have been given the opportunity to see all of the imperial cities in the past few days on this journey. We also learned that Marrakesh has only 65 days of rain in a year — 300+ days of sun. This is my kind of place to live!

We did a lot of walking to see many different cites around the city. We learned that the holes in the walls of the city were for scaffolding to build it up. There are more than 10 gates in Marrakesh including the Bab J’deed “New Gate”. Someone in our group had a good question about the calls to prayer … “What if someone is deaf and they cannot hear the call?” Our guide told us that a white flag is raised on top of the towers as a visual sign that it is time for the call to prayer. This was so interesting.

We walked past the ruins of an ancient mosque. When we questioned why they tore the old mosque down, our guide replied that they build the new one right next to the old one because it was not “aligned properly with Mecca”. Mohamed and the guide told us a little bit more about the calls to prayer and that they follow the rising/setting of the sun, and that it is not at any exact period of time, it can vary.

Gardens in Marrakesh.

We learned new Arabic today: “Yell-AH!” = “Let’s Go!”

Our group visited a cemetery where we saw servant tombs outside of the mosque. There are no names carved anywhere. The slabs are covered in beautiful yellow, turquoise, royal blue and white diamond tiles. Very near the servants tombs there was the Tomb of Three Arches where the women in the royal family where buried.

A short video clip of some architecture walking through the Bahia Palace. Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693133729/

Next we visited the Melah, or Jewish Quarter. Within the Jewish Quarter was the Bahia Palace or “Palais Bahia” where there were beautiful central gardens. Bahia actually means ‘beautiful’. The Bahia Palace was built in 1984 when the grand vizier married four wives, and the most beautiful was named Bahia. Down a corridor we found the Harem Quarter where the vizier’s 24 concubines and 4 wives lived together. The architectural style is Spano-moorish gardens.

Gardens inside of the Bahia Palace.

Listening to our guide give us history lessons about the architecture in Marrakesh.

Intricate tile work.

Carved plaster inside of the arches of the Bahia Palace.

A group photo… with Christopher behind his lens, as always.

Weathered painting, but still vibrant.

Olivia, Casandra, Pat, Tim, Victoria, Christopher, Joe and Beth catch a little tiny rest under a bit of shade in the courtyard.

Inside of the bustling city we stopped at a shop called Rosa Huille. This was my favorite store. We were given a presentation of spices at this shop. We learned so much!! Ras el Hanout is ‘heat of shop’ which is a 35 spices blend for meats. Moroccan Curry and cumin, chili pepper, Saffron lipstick balm, orange blossom and jasmine oils… the list of items in this store is endless.

Upon entering Rosa Huille shop, two woman sat grinding nuts to draw out their butter and oils.

A man gives us detailed explanation of numerous uses for each item that Rosa Huille sells in their shop. You can see many canisters on the shelves all around the room.

A Video of this room and our presenter starts his informative demonstration of the items sold at Rosa Huille. Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696637870/

Black seed was one of my favorite things to purchase and bring home, it is great for the sinuses, asthma, snoring… there were different kinds of argan oil – some for cooking others for using in hair. Pat got a massage with some oils that Rosa Huille was selling. A few girls received a ‘clavicle’ massage.

AJ also ate a handful of cumin to help with his indigestion that he had been battling during the trip. This shop was incredible and we all spent quite a bit of time at the end of the presentation in the check out line.

Olivia and Casandra look on as AJ prepares himself before he swallows a handful of cumin.

AJ eats a handful of cumin to help his digestive system. Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696628482/

Afterward, we went to a few other shops that had incredible wares. Some of the shops were very pricey but it was interesting to see different and unique things. We also stopped at a rug shop but nobody bought anything. I wish we had saved up more money for a rug. Maybe next time!

Moroccan treasures.

Handmade Moroccan leather shoes in a rainbow of colors.

A superior example of metal-work molded into the image of a bird of prey.

A treasure box with pieces of bone and semi-precious stone inlay.

Various ceremonial daggers on display with vintage looking metal work.

Our stop in the rug shop. An image from the ground floor looking up into the building to the ceiling.
Notice the many layers on the walls and ceilings of ornamental tile work.

Some examples of rugs for us to purchase. Hand tied and loomed.

Checking out the Rug Shop — Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696623346/

More vibrant rugs to choose from.

We went to lunch and had the option of eating American food. Our table ate traditional tajine dishes to keep with the culture while visiting. Let me tell you something, if you go with Worcester State University on this trip, fully immerse yourself into the trip! Even though Mohamed gave us the option of eating American food, why bother? You are only in Morocco for 10 days and will be in the U.S for the rest of your life. Be adventurous and get something out of the ordinary! Okay, I have said my piece. We kept asking our waiter for more bread!! Meg yelled for more bread – we were famished!

Everyone wanted to go back to the square after lunch to do some more shopping. AJ and everyone else became kings at bartering. There was one point when Joe came back and showed us all of the cool things he was able to get for next to nothing. We were pros!

Crimson died wool looped and hung in the sun to dry in the alleyways of Marrakesh.

We walked around the city some more and saw people dying different fabrics in handmade dyes. The fabric and strings were hanging from the walkways drying in the sun. It was very interesting to see where the materials were made from the start.

So many textiles and colors in Marrakesh!

A child’s handprint on a wall in Marrakesh.

After our shopping excursion we went back to the hotel to have dinner. There was a local event for teenagers in the hotel so it was very crowded and loud. It was interesting to see how they were dressed. We were going to go to the hammam but we ran out of time. Mohamed has vowed to get us to one before we leave, he says it is something we cannot miss out on experiencing.

“Remember people, it’s 12 o’clock here. So let’s be as loud as possible.” – Pat

At night, we visited the Ali Baba show. We were not sure what to expect!

Mohamed and I (Beth) posing for a quick photo on our walk through the caves to get to the Ali Baba show.

We sat and had nuts and sodas while Joe got up and danced with some singers that were going table to table under the tent. There were thick, brightly colored carpet coverings everywhere.

Dinner and singers walked around visiting the tables. Here is a video of us having a repast and listening to the cymbals and seeing the dancers. Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693375415/

Joe is persuaded to get up and dance with the performers at the Ali Baba show.

A video clip of the Actors performing on horseback during the Ali Baba show: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696578708/

Moroccan musicians.

A Video Clip of the Ali Baba Performers: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696546750/

Outside, there was an oval arena where Moroccan performers raced up and down firing their guns acting out a story. There were trick riders and a belly dancer. We had the best seats in the house, right up front to see the action. There was a “magic carpet” up on cables that “floated” down and over the arena at the end of the show. The show was very stylized and did not help the typically “Moroccan stigma” of what some Americans think of the country, but it was fun and entertaining. I enjoyed myself and the music was awesome and the people were super friendly.

As part of the performance, there was a bridal caravan.
In the distance you can see a white and blue carriage.

At the end of the show, we were thanked for coming with a flaming finale.

Video Clip:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693311165/

Kayla passed out on Meghan’s shoulder on the way back to the hotel.

Bleary-eyed, we made our way back to our hotel. Another day — tomorrow!

Day Nine: Leaving Marrakesh, Setti Fatma Falls, Casablanca [June 3rd 2013, Monday]

Worcester State University Faculty Led Morocco Program – 2013 (Day 9)

We were not going to be returning to Marrakesh after our travels today, so we packed up everything nice and neat and loaded our bags into the van once more. We are getting very good at packing and unpacking our things! This morning our destination is the Falls at Setti Fatma which would be a short one and a half hour drive. Trust me, at this point in the trip, an hour and a half drive is nothing!

—- *Blog Photographs are Courtesy of Christopher Lippmann, one of thirteen WSU Morocco 2013 Travelers | **Video Links are short ‘clips’ uploaded from the entire WSU Group to our WSU Flickr Account to enhance the blog experience. —-

We meandered along a stream at the base of the mountain through a small village. There were little cafes along the water set up with brightly colored pillows strewn about. None of the cafes were open yet because it was still early in the morning. All was quiet and we were immersed in the natural atmosphere of the mountains. People were just starting to wake up and come out of the small, squat buildings peppered in the hills. We walked over rickety bridges to get across to the path to the Setti Fatma Falls.

Our first glimpse of the stream near the Setti Fatma falls.

A wooden bridge to cross to find the path up the mountain.

Local ladies doing wash in the frigid waters from the mountain.

Many little cafes with tables set up under willow trees in the gorge between the mountain.

Walking up the path to Setti Fatma Falls — Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696519408/

A kitten crossed our path. Olivia scooped him up and carried him with us for a part of the hike through the village. All of the girls in our group were enamoured with the animals we came across in our travels.

Olivia steals a neighbor’s kitten to take on our walk with us.

We are heading up the path to find these fabled Falls!

We hiked for about a half mile up the side of the mountain to reach the first of seven waterfalls. The hike is very easy, many of us climbed up easily in sandals but looking back I would recommend sneakers. If you go on this hike with Professor Brahimi through WSU, I would strongly suggest bringing a well balanced back pack to stow away your electronics and water bottles safely. Mohamed was having a little bit of trouble balancing a bottle and his iPad while hiking up the mountain but we all made up there safely.

Once we arrived at the pool of water by the bottom falls we all chucked off our shoes and rolled up our pants to jump in the water. I have never felt water that cold in my entire life! It was so cold that it was physically painful but very refreshing and definitely worth the climb up to play around in the water and to see the falls.

WSU found the falls of Setti Fatma!

WSU makes it to the Setti Fatma Falls! Video Clips: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693255925/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696494704/

The water is so cold! Video Clip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693271931/

We got some great pictures of the group such as Pat staring off into the distance, Tim taking off his shirt and waving it around like a cowboy with a lasso, Casandra being a billy-goat on the rocks, AJ trying to kill himself on the rock cliffs… again. Oh, AJ. AJ was by far the Daredevil of the group. We all became quite close on this trip. After playing around in the falls we all decided to stop at some small artisanal shops located a little ways down the path on the way back to the village. We stopped where everyone paid 20 dirham (about $2.50 USD) to have a local hammer our names in Arabic on a piece of tin to attach to a colored leather bracelet. We lounged around while we waited.

Kayla, Olivia, and Pat pretending the water isn’t cold.
Omar couldn’t pretend any longer.

Victoria hangs out in the water at the Falls while Pat, Kayla, Joe, Tim and AJ debate on who is going to go in next.

Kayla and Meghan grin and bear the cold water of the Setti Fatma Falls.

Casandra is dubbed our ‘bathing beauty’ as she soaks up some Moroccan sun on the warm rocks by the falls.

A local craftsman taps our names in Arabic onto little scraps of tin and attaches them to different colored leather scraps of our choosing for bracelets.

We sipped on Hawai which was actually chilled by the water from the falls. What a wonderful idea! The water worked as a natural refrigerator.

Sodas on display under running water off the mountain.

Video Clip: Meghan asks, “What Town Are We In?” http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9693276415/

While I was waiting for the artist to finish his work on my handmade bracelet, I went way from the group to a different shop found further down the walkway. You could stand and watch the artist work with soapstone to carve it. All of the carvings looked dusty and unfinished. I said they were magic stones because when you put the little figures in water they take up the colors of the stone as they should be. There was an old man that talked to me saying that all of humanity are equals, we all have the same eyes, nose mouth – two hands, two feet. He appreciated our visit and offered me the opportunity to apprentice in the stone shop for a year. You can completely go off the grid here! The old man told me that I could live in the village and work with him. Everyone was so kind and welcoming. After this meeting with the old man, I could not help but reflect on the differences between U.S. hospitality and our experiences with Moroccan hospitality. On a scale of 1-10, Morocco is at least a 13 and the U.S is probably a 5 in the ‘hospitality and kindness’ department.

Mohamed and Omar pause on our walk down the path for a photo.

A different color for a different café perhaps? Very cool to see from above on the path by the falls.

A Walk at Setti Fatma: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97085118@N08/9696478774/in/photostream/

Horses and camels bedecked in brightly woven saddles for tourists to ride up the mountain.

Lunch was at a giant restaurant down the road. We laughed and discussed our adventures so far. After our relaxing lunch, we took a few photos out front of the building with AJ holding our banner — a roll of TP. It became very symbolic during this trip.

An opulent restaurant all to ourselves for lunch.

Steamy chicken tagine, anyone?

Leaving the restaurant we decided to fly our TP banner proudly.
It became a symbol during our trip.

Casablanca seemed like forever away. We drove through the countryside up from the south to the Atlantic coast. When we checked into our hotel we regrouped later on and met up with Mohamed’s cousins and some students from a nearby University. We were pleasantly surprised when Ali and a student from his own program came to join us for dinner. We exchanged stories, thoughts about the trip and gifted presents around to one another.

Tim says, “Paint me like one of your French girls.”

Dinner at our final hotel in Casablanca with Ali, Mohamed’s cousins and some students from a local college.

Joe presents a gift to one of Mohamed’s cousins after dinner.

Mingling and talking after dinner.

The evening ended with us saying our final goodbyes to everyone that we met on our journey and we promised to keep in touch online and to make every effort to travel back to Morocco in the future.

Good bye, new friends! We will never forget you!

Mohamed with his cousins and Ali saying our final goodbyes.

Day Ten: Last Day, Casablanca and then Home [May 4th 2013, Tuesday]

Worcester State University Faculty Led Morocco Trip – 2013

Our Final Day in Morocco

Everyone was a little subdued this morning when we gathered for breakfast in our hotel.  We all took extra precautions packing up our Moroccan treasures to take home with us because we are going to be heading to the airport shortly.  We stopped briefly at the Brahimi household in Casablanca to say one final goodbye to Mohamed’s family.

—- *Blog Photographs are Courtesy of Christopher Lippmann, one of thirteen WSU Morocco 2013 Travelers | **Video Links are short ‘clips’ uploaded from the entire WSU Group to our WSU Flickr Account to enhance the blog experience. —-

Goodbye Brahimi home!

One more crazy pic.

Mohamed was able to work wonders in our schedule and we were able to visit the hammam called Le Pacha.  It was very inexpensive, I believe it was only 50 dirham or about $7.00 US.  The ladies and the men were separated and led down different halls.  I personally had never experienced a hammam or bathhouse before and did not know what to expect.  We were given wraps and were escorted down a long hall.  We stepped into a nice humid, warm room surrounded by tables for massage and little stone basins along the walls that poured out piping hot water or freezing cold water. We were given little bowls to bath ourselves.  There was a big pedestal in the center of the room covered by a mound of what looked like obsidian (lava rock).  It was smooth and dark like smoked glass.  Each of us took a giant handful of this black soap called in arabic “Saboon Al baldi” and walked into the steam room.  The air felt good on our lungs in here. There was a bowl of herbs and eucalyptus which purified the air.

A wonderful way to wind down after a long 10 days of traveling a foreign country.

We washed all washed up with this magical soap.  After a while, we walked out and were accosted by a couple of women working in the main room with the tables.  Even though we couldn’t communicate at all in Arabic or French, there was a woman inside who helped us translate a little bit back and forth for us.  We all got incredible massages — we felt bad because we were taking longer than Mohamed asked us too but we just could NOT resist, especially after our long journey.  After that we wanted to sleep for a month.  The massage was only a little dirham extra and well worth it.  I could write for hours about this magical oasis of rest and relaxation but it is time to move on to write about other, more important things that we were able to do on this trip.

The boys were a little antsy when us ladies emerged from our royal treatment.  Everyone piled into the van again and took off to the school before we needed to go to the airport.  We went to visit Mohamed’s family member who worked at the Deroua School.

Victoria and Olivia greet the students with a little bit of Arabic.

Victoria learns the names of the students.

A picture together at the Deroua School.
Victoria says, “This… is a dinosaur.”

One of the classrooms at the school we visited.
We learned that these students learn Arabic, French and a little bit of English by this age.

Those of us who spoke a little Arabic were able to converse with the children.  It was a nice, short visit to the school and we took photos with the children in their classrooms.  I could not help but be amazed that children at this age are taught to become multi-lingual.  It was impressive and really puts the U.S. to shame.  High schools here in the United States struggle to teach students a second language as required courses and these students were so eager to learn and show of their language skills to us while we visited with them.

After the visit to the school, we drove to the Mohammed V Airport to check our bags and we walked around a little bit.  Most of us still had a bit of cash left so we bought some last minute gifts for friends and family.  We said goodbye to Olivia who was taking a different flight on to Spain for her extended journeys abroad.

Time for takeoff! We will miss you Morocco!

Leaving Morocco we flew over the Hassan II mosque and marveled that we were able to visit such a wonderful place.  Everyone was extremely tired from our 10 days of incredible journeying in Morocco, but ask any one of us and we would tell you we would go back in a heartbeat.  I could not believe how welcoming and warm every single person was.  From Mohamed’s family welcoming us to the Brahimi home on day one to our new student-friends in Meknes, Ali in Rabat, and everyone else in between — no one could say that we are not welcome back again.  Ali always tells me to come back next year and I really hope to do so!

Visiting Morocco with the WSU Study Abroad Program was one of the best choices that I made.  Yes, it is an investment — but you need to think that you are investing in memories of a lifetime and you are creating new friends, seeing an entirely new country that you may know very little about, and you are making a difference in many different lives of people you will meet along the way.  The history, culture, religion, food!, friendship, hospitality is so overwhelming that you really need to take as many pictures as you can, write it all down and just soak it all up.

By the time we touched down in NYC, we were on our last legs of this trip and feeling a little tired, but relaxed.  We took some photos but we were all feeling a little depressed about saying goodbye to one another.  We drove back to Massachusetts and pulled into WSU later at night – somewhere around 10pm, grabbed our bags one last time and gave a round of hugs.

Man, what a trip!  Lets go again!